Key takeaways
First-time visitors to Banghak-dong notice the photogenic ginkgo tree and the trailhead into Mt. Dobong before anything else. But this neighborhood holds the grave of Yeonsangun — Joseon's tenth king, who was deposed from the throne — and the tomb of Princess Jeongui, daughter of King Sejong, within the same small area. Fact Both were royal descendants, but Yeonsangun was demoted to the rank of a mere prince, so his grave carries only the lesser designation of "myo" rather than the royal "neung" reserved for kings and queens. Fact Princess Jeongui's tomb, by contrast, has remained a fully honored burial site alongside her husband, Ahn Maeng-dam, ever since. Fact
FIT TRIP reads this neighborhood as a case study in how political fortune, even within the same royal family, could completely determine the rank of one's grave. Budget three to four hours from Banghak Station to the Kim Su-yeong Literature Museum, and you'll see the gap in royal rank overlap with modern literary resistance within a single neighborhood.
What the postcard image misses
"A ginkgo tree photo spot" and "a trailhead into Mt. Dobong" only show half this neighborhood's story. FIT TRIP asks the sharper question: why did two descendants of the same royal family end up with graves of such different rank? The answer isn't scenery — it's the gap between political expulsion and royal honor.
✅ Before you go
- Both the Grave of Yeonsangun and the Tomb of Princess Jeongui are genuine cultural heritage sites — visit quietly and respectfully
- The Kim Su-yeong Literature Museum honors a poet whose family, not the poet himself, actually lived in this neighborhood
- The ginkgo tree draws crowds during peak fall foliage, which can get crowded
- If continuing toward Mt. Dobong, decide in advance whether you need hiking gear
FAQ
Q: Why isn't Yeonsangun's grave called a "royal tomb" (neung)?
A: Because Yeonsangun was deposed in a coup and demoted to the rank of a prince, losing his status as king. Fact
Q: Did the poet Kim Su-yeong actually live in this neighborhood?
A: No — the poet himself lived in the Gusu-dong area of Mapo-gu; his family lived in Banghak-dong. He commuted here regularly to help with family matters and to write. Fact