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Ui-dong · 💧

Ui Gugok Is a Nine-Chapter Landscape Written on a Stream

Ep. 2 · A late-Joseon way of travelling by naming water, rocks and pauses

The inscriptions beside Ui Stream are not casual graffiti; they belong to an old practice of selecting nine scenes and giving a watercourse sequence and meaning.

Gugok as an old method of editing scenery

Gugok, literally “nine bends,” is an East Asian tradition of dividing a beautiful stream into nine named scenes. Nine does not mean that nature contains only nine worthwhile views; it is a framework for reading a watercourse in an ordered way. Ui Gugok began when the late-Joseon scholar and writer Hong Yang-ho selected and named places along Ui Valley and made them subjects of prose, poetry and painting. Seoul’s historical materials, including references to his “Record of the Nine Bends of Ui-dong,” show that this was a place for learning and friendship before it became a modern summer retreat. The journey valued pauses along the valley rather than conquest of a summit.

When carved characters become a map

Some rock inscriptions and traces of the gugok landscape remain along the valley. Curves in the water, pools, broad rocks and deep shade form separate scenes; carved names work as marks of memory. The present path and channel, however, are not unchanged Joseon scenery. Roads and facilities arrived, while floods and weathering weakened or obscured traces. Do not turn the walk into a treasure hunt that requires stepping into the stream or climbing rocks. Use official signs and guided routes, and do not confidently identify characters that are no longer legible.

Between scholars’ retreats and an urban valley

Writers from the Joseon capital composed poems and met friends at villas and valleys outside the city walls. Ui-dong offered deep mountain scenery while remaining connected to Hanyang, the old name for Seoul. Compare that world with today’s terminal station, cafés, restaurants and hiking shops. Visiting habits changed, yet people still slow down beside water and escape urban heat. Ui Gugok is not an untouched secret valley. It is a cultural landscape repeatedly selected, recorded, altered and used by different generations.

Context an international visitor may miss

You can understand the route without reading classical Chinese. Ask why someone stopped at a particular bend: does the water sound change, does a rock open the view, or does the forest become darker? In older Korean landscape culture, nature was not only a photographic background but a place to cultivate character and exchange ideas. When a sign supplies an original name and translation, read both, but do not assume every historical bend maps perfectly onto a current place-name. Separating documented evidence from modern interpretation is part of an honest visit.

Keep a safe distance from water and heritage

Rain can change the stream’s depth and speed quickly. Check heavy-rain, landslide, rockfall and trail-closure notices, and stay behind railings and off wet rocks. Never touch inscriptions or apply water, chalk or rubbing material to make them clearer. Summer crowds also share this route with residents and businesses, so keep passages open. The point is not to collect all nine marks. It is to understand why people paused, and to compare a recorded landscape with the neighborhood that surrounds it now.