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Jeondong Cathedral · ⛪

1791–1801. A cathedral built on an execution ground, facing down a shrine to kings

The ground where Jeondong Cathedral now stands was once just outside the walls of Jeonju's old fortress, near the south gate — a place where people were executed. In 1791, during the Sinhae Persecution, two Korean Catholics, Yun Ji-chung and Gwon Sang-yeon, were put to death here. A decade later, in 1801, during the Sinyu Persecution, Yu Hang-geom — often called the first apostle of the Honam region — and Yun Ji-heon were executed at the same site. This ground counts among the earliest martyrdom sites in the entire history of Korean Catholicism.

The cathedral standing here today was designed by a French priest, broke ground in 1908, and was completed in 1914. Built from a mix of gray and red brick in a Romanesque style topped with a Byzantine-influenced dome, its distinctive silhouette is often compared to Myeongdong Cathedral in Seoul. But its location deserves a second look: cross a single street from Jeondong Cathedral and you're at Gyeongjeon Shrine, the symbolic heart of the Joseon royal family's origins. A cathedral built on ground soaked with martyrs' blood stands roughly a one-minute walk from a shrine enshrining the portrait of the king who founded that very dynasty. Walk through the Hanok Village and you'll see both buildings in the same glance — an almost accidental arrangement that quietly holds two entirely different belief systems Joseon-era Korea had to reckon with, face to face.