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Choryang · 🏮

The Shanghai Gate and Cyrillic signs: two foreign layers

Within one block across from Busan Station, Chinese and Russian signboards hang side by side. The overseas-Chinese layer begun in the 1884 Qing concession, and the Russian layer the port brought in — Choryang’s two foreign countries.

Cross the road from the station square and the Shanghai Gate stands before you. Inside, a street of red lanterns and Chinese signboards — yet a few steps into the next lane, the signs turn Cyrillic. In one Choryang block, two foreign countries are folded together.

The 1884 layer: overseas Chinese

Chinatown’s origin is the Qing concession established here in 1884 Fact. Chinese merchants settled, a school was founded, and Chinese restaurants passed down the generations Fact. The Three Kingdoms mural lane and the Shanghai Gate — commemorating the Busan–Shanghai sister-city tie — are today’s markers Fact. As on Brick Lane in Shoreditch, a migration layer survives longest as food — this lane’s dumplings are the proof.

Named Texas, signed in Russian

Texas Street, overlapping the same blocks, took its name from the strip that served US soldiers after the Korean War Fact. The space the troops left was filled by Russian sailors and traders moving through the port — which is why most signboards today are Cyrillic Fact. A street whose name and signboards point to different eras: a port city’s migration history, stacked like strata and still open for business on the same pavement.