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Incheon Open Port · 🥢

The Dish the People from Shandong Made

In 1908 a twenty-two-year-old from Shandong opened an inn. In 1911 he renamed it Gonghwachun, and there a dish got the name jjajangmyeon. A migrant food became a national one.

One of the most widely eaten dishes in Korea began on this hill. And the people who made it had crossed a sea.

A settlement across the water

After Incheon port opened in 1883, Chinese settlers began living on the slopes of Eungbongsan in Seollin-dong, today’s Chinatown Fact. As trade between Joseon and Qing flourished, Chinese restaurants appeared Fact, and the meals of people moving between dock work and trade became the demand of these alleys Estimate. The Qing concession of Ep.2 is the institutional background of this layer.

The inn of 1908

Gonghwachun was not a restaurant at first. When founded in 1908 it was Shandong Hall, a Chinese inn, established with capital from a twenty-two-year-old from Shandong named U Hui-gwang and co-investors Fact. Then in 1911 it was renamed Gonghwachun — spring of the republic — to mark the Xinhai Revolution Fact. A revolution in the migrants’ homeland was inscribed in a shop sign.

The moment it got a name

Gonghwachun is known as the first place in Korea to sell jjajangmyeon under that name Fact. What matters is that this was not a simple transplant of a Chinese dish. Adapted to Korean taste with sweet caramel added and the moisture kept moderate Fact, it became something unlike the original and unlike anything elsewhere Estimate. That is the classic path of a migrant food.

What you see now

The old Gonghwachun building is now the Jjajangmyeon Museum Fact. The red signs of Chinatown are today’s tourist scenery, but underneath lies more than a century of settlement by people who crossed the sea with the opening of the port Estimate. That is why a bowl of jjajangmyeon carries different weight in this district.